Surf swaps took on new meaning during the global pandemic, as in, they happened from home instead of on the beach. One of us stayed back with our daughter, while the other left for a social distance surf. Hawaii still allowed surfing, which was the very reason why we avoided the now overly-crowded beaches. Everyone staying home from school and work seemed to be at the beach. Who could blame them, though? It sure beat staying indoors all day. Social distancing just got tough with a roaming toddler.
But FOMO (fear of missing out) is real, especially for a frothing wave-starved parent. For us to both get a surf in, we’d paddle her out to secluded inside spots. We'd probably never have considered them before, but the empty line-up of playful inside waves looked inviting when surfers oversaturated outside peaks.
These family sessions were just what we craved. They not only kept us sane but hopeful as well. Discovering new spots and getting our little one on a board shined light on these dark times. Still, surf swapping didn't happen. Minimizing time at the beach had become just as much a priority as catching waves. We surfed, then paddled straight in and to the car with our little one and boards in tow.
After a few months into the stay-at-home order, however, Hawaii began to flatten the curve. The number of cases dropped to single digits and businesses slowly reopened. It gave everyone hope when the rest of the world didn't look like it was doing so well.
The fewer cases in Hawaii didn't necessarily mean the beaches got less crowded. For us, it meant we could social distance surf at popular spots we'd been avoiding. It also meant we felt comfortable trading off to surf. The weekdays gifted somewhat emptier beaches and line-ups. And our daughter could, once again, enjoy playing in the sand.
When the beaches seemed a little too crowded for comfort, we got creative with surf swaps. Our daughter played on the shore with one of us, while the other paddled out. Then when that parent returned to the beach, our car became a makeshift playground. Climbing over seats and digging through the glove compartment entertained her for hours. It not only kept her away from other people but also out of the sun.
It's funny to think how family beach days now look this way. Putting our safety ahead of our own surf ego was easy to do. We just had to make minor adjustments to our surf fam lifestyle. Although mildly inconvenient, these changes could never ever compare to what others around the world, or right here in Hawaii, might be experiencing with the virus. We will be forever grateful for our health, our loved ones and even something as simple as sand between our toes.
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